News from Waikiki

Aloha

Hawaii Blogs:

Oct Nov 08

Walking in Waikiki, with Cloudia Charters, Winter has come to Waikiki. . .Nov. 20, 2008

The nights are cooling, and it is time to bring out the quilts after months of sleeping only under a thin, rayon pareau (sarong). At night we fall asleep to the "rigging chies" of the harbor: ropes clanging against masts of aluminium and wood like the orchestra at a NOH play. Visitors enjoy the beaches, and locals may be spotted and known by their sweaters and light jackets. Delightful weather!

There is snow atop the Big Island's Maunakea and Miss Kitty's fur is regal & thick once again. Visitors may only feel the relative mildness but we who live here, Kitty & I, we know the changes of this `Aina (land/country) in our bones and in our noses. Crystal sharp trade winds bear the scent of Alaska, of thousands of open ocean miles, and vast empires of sky.

Photo credit TED TRIMMER

They pause to pick up smells from yellow ginger, hidden mosses, and tropical soil, as they push themselves over the green Ko`olau mountains that backdrop our toy city like a misty Asian scroll painting. The character of the clouds tells me it's winter. Is it their shape, activity & colour? Or is it their sense of humor as they tumble mumble and disassemble like Circe de Soliel acrobats above us?

The Hawaiians of old found ready messages and wisdom in the clouds. Knowing the Kanaka (Hawaiian person) love of fun and word-play, perhaps certain funny-clouds rained punchlines that made the Kahuna chuckle all day. . . their cirrus & cumulus descendants are not telling; Not even me, their cousin Cloudia. . .

A new display at Iolani Palace features some of King Kalakaua's personal treasures, including a gold cigarette case dusted with 99 diamonds, three emeralds, and four rubies, given him by his sister in law Po`omaikelani in 1881 as a birthday present. Other royal baubles include a "unicorn" cane (actually the tusk of a narwhal) and a122 year old Swiss watch with a curious, early digital display.

And speaking of family heirlooms, some of Madelyn Dunham's dresses have been removed to the Mu`u Mu`u Heaven Shop in Kailua in order for the fabric to be reworked into dresses for great-granddaughters Malia and Sasha Obama to wear. This sweet custom is an Obama family tradition. The President-elect wears aloha shirts made from his late mother's clothing as well . . .

Winter surf is drawing crowds of up to 2,000 to watch world-class Triple Crown of Surfing events, like the kick-off 'Reef Hawaiian Pro' men's surfing contest recently at Ali`i Beach Park in Hale`iwa Town. Waves the size of office buildings rush to the beach with a roar that cannot be described, you need to experience it. Tiny humans perched on splinters of high-tech fiberglass glide down the ever-changing faces of these giants, sometimes they are tossed into the air and then immediately submerged under tons of crushing ocean, even dashed on the submerged reefs that give the ocean travelling swells the "ali-UP!" boost which causes the awesome monster waves.

Only professionals may enter the water on those "big days." The rest of us are safer on the shore, contemplating nature's furious ceremony. DO observe posted warning signs, check in with life-guards, and as the Hawaiians always say: "Never turn your back on the ocean." More better you do your OWN water sports here in gentle Waikiki!

While we're on the beach, did you notice that orange helicopter flying low up the coast a minute ago? Every day our US Coastguard conducts these slow, watchful flights (around 80 knots, and as low as 200 feet) around our isle of O`ahu. Flying about 350 search and rescue missions is just part of what they are doing. Enviornmental protection, such as enforcing the Marine Mammal Protection act, and port security, make the Coast guard a "multi-mission" asset to our island community. They use cameras and deterrence to protect our wintering whales and they provide an ever-reassuring presence to boaters and kayakers far from shore. Each HH-65 Dolphin carries two pilots, a rescue swimmer, and flight mechanic. Thanks folks!

Students on the island of Kaua`i recently released 11 `A`O, or endangered Newell's Shearwaters, into the wild in a second annual E Ho`opomaika`i ia na Manu `A`O (Blessing of the the Shearwater birds). For 30 years "Save our Shearwater" boxes have been available at island fire stations to receive (mostly) fledgling birds disoriented by lights, buildings, and human activity. They are a marine species born in nests high in upland forests of ohi`a and uluhe, who find their way out to sea from mid-September to mid-December. Thirty-two thousand such birds have been rescued and released since 1979, according to S.O.S. Students and public officials shared a youthful "yeah!" as each guest departed; and students from Ke Kula (School) Ni`ihau O Kekaha chanted in Hawaiian. "We're here to celebrate this really awesome bird. This bird is a part of you as you are a part of this island." said Nick Holmes, the project coordinator. . .

Another endangered species, our local family-operated food producers, loses another member as Marufuku Brand Miso (soy bean) Paste Factory closes it's 67 year-old doors in Honolulu's workaday Kalihi neighborhod at the end of this year. Mr Harry Morita cooked and fermented his first barrel in 1941 when there were 40 other miso producers in the islands, and sugar plantations still spread over our plains. Mr. Morita immigrated from Japan at 11 years of age to work on a Maui Plantation. He didn't care for plantation life, ran away to work in a butcher shop and dreamt of owning his own store. Employment at a miso factory in Liliha set him on his life's path. He chose the name Marufuku because it means "never-ending good fortune."

After his death 17 years ago the younger generation continued Harry's exemplary service ethic, even going so far as to deliver fresh miso to the homes of those with questions, and demonstrating methods of storing and cooking with their product. The Moritas will miss the clan business, but times change. "The family gets together to work and share stories . . . it's kind of sad because we won't be able to do that with the grand kids." said John Morita. . .

BIG CONGRATULATIONS to Kumu Hula, musical performer, writer and cultural icon Robert Cazimero on being named a USA (United States Artists) Fellow. 50 awardees from some 21 states were honored recently in Chicago. A (well deserved) $50,000 grant is appended to this honor. Do yourself a favor and check out ANY CD by the wonderful Brothers (Robert & brother Roland) Cazimero. Hawaiian music is what angels listen to at home!

Want to make YOUR angel smile? Take her to Paris Station on Keeaumoku at King Street! Women from all over the islands, and the world, make their way to this locally owned small business to trade and buy designer handbags. Cindy Young saw a market and boy has she cornered it! Gently used, and carefully selected Gucci, Dior, Fendi, Vuiton, and Hermes bags (all at a major discount) fill the colorful little shop along with some brand new items selling at "retail." Some refer to Paris Station as the happiest place on earth. That's cool; I prefer to think of Waikiki as Paris in Flip-flops, so designer bags are not exactly my "thing" but if they are YOURS this place will put a smile on your face. www.parisstation.com . . .

A minor industry of Obama Tours is stirring, including "Barack Obama's Local Neighborhood" tour led by the civic-minded Clean Air Team. Call 808-948-3299 for information. . .

Perhaps taking their cue from the stand-up surfing craze, skateboarders around Honolulu are now seen using "Pavement Paddles" to propel themselves along the sidewalk! Remember attaching skates to a wooden fruit-crate for your first home-made skateboard? Me neither

;-). . . Walking these Waikiki streets, I like to have a dollar bill or two ready to share with a smile. I spotted him just ahead: a young fellow with a well worn pack who looked as if he needed a meal. "Aloha," I smiled at him, "How's it going?" He looked happy but disoriented. "Had anything to eat?" I asked, offering him a dollar. "Oh that's cool." he replied with his own beatific smile. "I have this feather." he said, happily showing me a white quill. Nonplussed I continued on my way thinking of Disney's baby elephant Dumbo who was able to fly above the circus crowds clutching his magic feather. Safe landings, young man. . . .

This weekend, the Honolulu Christmas tree will be erected downtown. Already!? Yes. I'd say we could all use a little Christmas right about now! Think about celebrating it here with us. Life's parade is never boring . . . when you're walking in Waikiki. . .

A L O H A!

Check out Cloudia's Hawaii Novel: "Aloha Where You Like Go?" at

www.amazon.com/ALOHA-WHERE-YOU-LIKE-SATISFACTION/dp/1598006485

& her daily blog at www.comfortspiral.blogspot.com

Literary Hawaii, Waimano Trail, by Kalani Killarney, Nov. 16, 2008

Many adventures begin not with a step, but with a misstep. I arrived at the trail head and waited, but no one showed up. I waited for awhile, but knowing how long the trail is, I finally decided to hike it alone. I hike alone often; don’t try it unless you not only know what you are doing, but also know the terrain you are hiking. I have been successful hiking alone for many years, because I know when to turn around. Besides, as Kulia says, “when God is with you, you are never alone.”

The misstep, the mistake, was not that I was late. I arrived on time, but not at the right location; the hiking club met in town and I went directly to the trail

head. I had hiked this trail alone many times before, but this time I had decided to team up with a hiking club . Not because it is strenuous, which it is; not because it is long, fifteen miles up and back; but because the last time I did the trail, there was a washout close to the summit and I was unable to finish it. I say close because it was hard to say how far I had gone when I encountered the washout; I had been hiking awhile. A while can be a long way when you are tired.

It was a fairly recent washout. Washouts are common on ridge trails in Hawaii. Because of the copious amount of rainfall, the vegetation on the sides of near vertical cliffs grows and grows until the ground cannot support it any longer and the whole thing slides to the bottom. If the trail is on that side of the ridge, the trail goes with it. If you happen to be there when it goes, it is too late to put your affairs in order. So because of the washout, I decided to hook up with the local hiking club. I figured we might find a way around the washout. But this morning, they were not around. I thought then that they all might have just no-showed. Many people say they are going to meet you at a trailhead and then they somehow are vaporized on the morning of the hike. That is how I began hiking alone. Now I like it this way.

So I started out alone. The smell of the rainforest was overpowering. Waimano trail is blessed with many native and introduced species. The beginning of the trail is lined with guava, strawberry guava, mountain apples, and mangoes—all fruiting in their season. Morning showers dampen the forest floor which adds to the delicious aroma. And then there are the feral pigs that add their own pungent smell to the mix. When I have not been hiking for some time, it is the smell that strikes me first; like the perfume of an old lover, it is intoxicating. Then there are the sounds—the many bird songs that blend together into an ever changing melody. And finally, there is the dappled light on the forest floor. My thoughts come and go with the rhythm of my pace. Somewhere about a mile or so in something happens; a quiet permeates my soul and I remember why I do this.

Waimano trail begins at the top of Waimano Home Road right after Pearl City High School. The trail head splits at the top with a low route and high route that meet about a mile in. I always take the low road out and the high road home—the story of my life, so far. The trail then follows an old irrigation ditch for several miles. Parallel to the trail there are several sections of tunnels about three feet high. They offer an alternate route to those who prefer walking crouched over in the dark, rather than climbing over rocky outcroppings holding on to a line dangling above a hundred foot cliff. There are many fixed lines along the trail and they are very helpful when the trail is wet, which is almost all the time. The tunnels are the preferred route of pigs and spiders.

About two miles in, the trail switches down one ridge and across a stream bed, then climbs another ridge which it follows all the way to the summit. At the beginning of this section of the trail there is a Boy Scout shelter with a picnic table. After the shelter, the trail begins to narrow and the introduced plants and trees gradually give way to native plants and trees. It was at a lookout above Waimano valley about half-way up the trail that I ran into Kulia. She was standing looking at the valley stretched out before her with her iPod on and did not see or hear me approach. I startled her. I asked her if she was in the hiking club, but she did not know anything about it.

“You’re not hiking alone,” I said. Pardon my sexism but the reality is that it is much more dangerous for women to hike alone than men.

“My husband says that too,” said Kulia. “I always tell him, if God is with you, you are never alone.”

We decided to hike together for a while. To be honest, I thought she would turn around after a mile or so. She admitted having not hiked this far before. But I kept going and she kept following. We crossed one washout that proved to be not too dangerous. Still, the drop off was steep and I thought Kulia might opt to turn around. But when I looked behind me, she was on my heals. Kulia was tough; she had survived hurricane Katrina. She was one of the lucky ones; I was soon to find out how lucky.

At first I thought this was the washout I encountered several years earlier mellowed by rain and wind. But about a mile further on we encountered the washout that had stopped me in my tracks the last time I had done this trail. This time a slight notch was cut into the mountain and a strong line attached along its length. The trail above the washout was about ten feet long, and six inches wide—a slick, brown, muddy path above a 500 foot vertical drop. Kulia said let’s turn around and I said I just want to go across and see how far the summit was. I should have listened to Kulia.

About six feet across my plant-foot slid out from under me. I swung out on the rope and somehow managed to repel over to the other side. My heart was pumping. Had the rope not held or had my grip slipped, that would have been it.

“No, I had not planned that,” I told Kulia.

“Let’s turn back,” I said. “Just let me catch my breath and see what is on the other side of this ridge.”

I went up the trail a few yards and it appeared that the summit was only about a mile away. I came back and told Kulia how close the summit was and she said “I’m coming across.” I tried to talk her out of it, but there is no reasoning with a woman who has survived a force four hurricane. At least I got her to rap the line around her arm instead of just holding it. Later she told me that she had noted where I had slipped and felt certain that she could avoid my mistake when she got to that spot. But when she hit that same spot her foot went out just as mine had and the next thing I knew she was hanging upside down her back to the mountain with the rope under her crossed arms on her chest. I will never forget that look on her face. Luckily I was able to scoot down the mountainside a little, plant my legs on a stump, and pull her up.

“Kulia—the lucky one,” I said.

“I know,” Kulia replied trembling. “Oh, my God, look at my wrist. It was my watch that caught on the rope just long enough for me to get my grip.” She showed me her reddened wrist where the watch band had dug into it.

“I guess it was not your time,” I said. I took a hiking pole and dug a foot-hold all the way across. I should have done that earlier I thought; I should not have let her come across either, I chastised myself. But hindsight offers no light for the path ahead. I notched the trail over the washout in deeper. I was afraid Kulia might freeze when we came back this way and I didn’t want this place to haunt my thoughts the rest of the hike. This was the only way out. We continued on. The rest of the trail was steeper and more narrow, hugging the ridgeline with a precipice on first one side and then the other and staghorn ferns crowding over a muddy single-step track. I prefer to hike in shorts and the staghorn ferns on this section of the trail always leave their mark. It seemed like the summit was just around the bend and then there was another bend. Then it seemed like the summit was just above us and when we climbed that summit there was another one above it.

“How much further,” Kulia would ask.

“Just one more hill, around that bend,” I repeated. Now that she almost killed herself, I did not want her to stop this close to the summit. I could see the outline of the windward pali. I knew the elation of summiting would help erase the fear caused by our near fall. “Really,” I said, “this is the last bend, I promise.”

Finally we made it. Half way, I thought to myself. We rested at the summit and took a lunch break. The clouds lifted to reveal all of Kaneohe Bay from the Marine base to Chinaman’s Hat. I didn’t enjoy the view; I was worried about getting Kulia past that washout. Then we heard something crashing in the brush. It was the hiking club. I felt relieved knowing that there now would be someone in front of and behind Kulia on the way back. The blue waters of Kaneohe Bay glistened in the sun.

The return trail was a different trail. My feet felt lighter, and the staghorns seemed less abrasive. When we got to the washout, Kulia did not hesitate but only started to slide a little toward the end of the washed out section. Some people have a flair for the dramatic. We stopped half way back to enjoy the view and eat mountain apples—to revel in our accomplishment. A generous but gentle wind enveloped us. The Hawaiians of old had more than 200 names for winds. I don’t know the name of this wind; it came off the mountains and carried the song of the valley. The air was cool and crisp. I will call it a lucky wind—gracious and refreshing—makani olu olu.

Walking in Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters,Obama's Back Street, Oct. 31, 2008

I love little Young Street in Waikiki's neighboring Makiki district. A one-time 'carriage lane' it is the quiet back street between urgent King Street and stately, rushed Beretania. Here, away from the main-stream are small, long-time businesses, the back side of office buildings, garages, small apartment buildings, and the occasional tiny, perfect Hawaii bungalow with mynah birds and doves singing in a front yard plumeria tree. On Young street you can hear your thoughts.

Young Barry (Barack) Obama, whose childhood apartment is adjacent to Young street, must have walked the lane many times to collect his thoughts while growing up. And there he was again, during his most recent visit with the ailing Tutu (grandmother) he so often speaks of. No Michelle, no Sasha & Malia giggling this time; just a guy coming home, perhaps for the last time, to the rooms he grew up in, and the accomplished woman from Kansas who, he says, made him what he is today.

One afternoon, the presidential candidate strolled down Young Street with the Secret Service at a respectable distance. The young guy with the basketball is now a family man with much more important contests to win, but the passing of an age, of those we love, puts things into perspective doesn't it? He must have been enjoying the perspective of Young Street till the cameras found him. Pensively he rejoined the caravan. It's a shame that his privacy was broached, but I am grateful for the few moments' tape of him walking alone. A local guy walking down the back street, with miles yet to go. . .

Photo by Ted Trimmer

And speaking of local pride! My childhood Phillies have won the World Series with the help of local hero, Maui Boy, the "Flyin' Hawaiian" Shane Victorino! In his ballpark locker, Shane has a news article headlined: "Hawaii Wins Little League World Series 08." Our keiki (kids) inspire us, and now the Big League Bruddah is returning the favor.

These tiny specks of island also produced the Beijing Olympics' "greatest athlete," decathlon gold medallist, Bryan Clay, soccer golden girl Natasha Kai (I know I'm forgetting others!) plus NFL players like kicker Jason Elam, and Washington quarterback Colt Brennan of last season's WAC champion, yep, UH . . . (and let's not forget Jack Johnson)

But enough boasting! The Hilton's Luau on the Lagoon looks to be getting very popular. You can now save yourself a bus ride far out of Waikiki (though Paradise Cove is a great place) while still enjoying torches, hula, games, and too much good food in a lovely setting . . . Jimmy Buffet is opening a huge-mungous restaurant at the Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel early next year. Don Ho's old showroom was right there, so the atmosphere and acoustics should be right for a little pickin' & singin' eh Mr. Margaritaville?

Swanning about: Four black swans mysteriously appeared recently at Ala Moana Beach Park. Sunday park goers were astonished at the sight; old-timers (and we get some OOOOLD-timahs) had never seen the like. Stately, poised and grand, the red-billed beauties glided in formation while swimmers kept a respectful distance. They seemed calm and tolerant of humans – though no one knows WHERE they came from! All the nearby Hilton's wildlife was accounted for. (I mean, hey, would YOU leave free lifetime digs at a destination resort?) And then, as mysteriously as they had appeared . . . they were . . .gone. . .

Maunakea, the Big Island's 'white mountain' is once again tipped with snow. The far off white peak, set against a blue tropic sky and wreathed in green swaying palms is one of the eternal images of Hawaii. Where else can you sled in the morning, ride a fine horse over the high, open range of cowboy Waimea in the afternoon, and surf Kohala's gold-coast at Pau Hana (happy hour!) time?

November 7 – 10^th would be a perfect time to fly into Kona International Airport for the annual Kona Coffee Cultural Festival. Small town parades, beauty pageants, tastings, gourmet food events, art exhibitions, AND a coffee picking contest will showcase this unique region. You may even hear a "Kona Nightingale" (mule) braying on the hillside. Red coffee "cherries" falling into a canvas sack on a small family farm or coffee estate, still mean an awful lot to the people and economy of Kona. You can visit the picturesque town of Holualoa on the volcanic slope above Kailua Town, where you'll find little shops, a small post office, art galleries, and you might even see wisps of volcanic steam arising from vents in the "resting" Hualalai volcano <www.konacoffeefest.com> . . .

watching Oscar winner Chloris Leachman gamely dancing on TV got me thinking. It was sort of jarring to see a mature woman being thrown around like that. I started musing about all the times I have seen very old, or very heavy women (and men!) dance hula in public. They moved gracefully (or funny – Uncle!) and have never looked anything less than dignified and beautiful. Sorry for the clichés, but they fit this time. Our mature adults are graceful. They don't try to copy the moves of the young. They express their Aloha, and have learned the timeless choreography that hula shares with nature: swaying, reaching, and embracing. In Hawaii, everyone is beautiful; and it has zero to do with make-up, a perfect outfit, or conventional "beauty." Our tropic sun melts all pretension. Here, your posture, grooming, Aloha, and facial expression are your essential wardrobe. So come over sometime, and watch Tutu dance. . .

Diamond Head summit, that famous and rewarding hike, will be closed until November 20^th. I really should make it up there someday, but it's been a busy 20 years in Waikiki! Don't worry: I'll remember da camera ;-) . . . analog TV will be switched 'off' a bit early in the Islands (January 15^th) out of respect for the `Ua`u bird (Hawaiian Petrel) which breeds up on the mountain tops in February, and might be disturbed by the dismantling of analog power equipment in those wild places.

Good News: a new study has determined that our "deep seven" bottomfish species (Ehu, Gindai, Hapu`upu`u, Kalekale, Lehi, Onaga, and famous Opakapaka) remain more plentiful than previously feared! This means bigger limits for fishermen when the season opens November 15^th. The fishery was "closed" last April when the standing 'catch limit' was met . . .

In 1904 an abandoned Hale Pili (grass shack) from Kauai was shipped to Oahu. The popular Bishop Museum exhibit is being refurbished with now-rare Island Naio, Kauila, Uhiuhi, and Lama woods. So if you 'wanna go back to a little grass shack' pay a visit to the museum, which is a world center of Polynesian Studies and a fun place to spend an afternoon.

Shout out: Big mahalos to Kaye-Lani and Mr. Wing Chan at Hawaiian Telcom who efficiently swapped my dead computer modem for a lively one with professionalism and aloha. Thanks folks, you made it almost fun! Winter Tip: If you suffer from dry skin, or even a skin condition, do as the Hawaiians have long done: try soothing Kukui oil! www.oilsofaloha.com. . .

The other day I was putting coins in the meter at Kapiolani Park when a car pulled up in the adjacent spot. As the driver approached, digging in his pockets, I put a nickel in his meter and smiled. He looked pleasantly surprised and thanked me simply as I walked away. The best investment I've made in a while! There's little market risk in paying it forward . . . when you're walking in Waikiki . . .ALOHA!

Want to enjoy more Waikiki "street" life with Cloudia? Check out her Hawaii "Taxi Cab" Novel: "Aloha Where You Like Go?" at Amazon.com, local bookstores, or the Hawaii State Library branch near you! NOW you can read her daily blog at www.comfortspiral.blogspot.com cloudia.charters@gmail.com<MAHALO>

Walking in Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters, Animal Hula

Schools of small fry continue to animate the harbor. Swarms of tiny arrows – bigger everyday – are still learning the stately hula of adult fish. Watching them play & learn, the mind asks: "What breed are those?" The imagination murmurs that it doesn't really matter as attention shifts, now enraptured by the golden points of sparkle swaying scattered across the unified field of the ocean's surface. . .

I attended the Kava Festival and limited my consumption to one muddy cup of the Polynesian elixir. Still, I forgot to take any pictures, and felt ultra-relaxed for two days! Ahhh. . .

Few people walking along the beach path behind the military's Hale Koa ("Warrior House") Hotel realize what history lies just below their feet. The cement walkway used to lie below the surface of the beach behind a retaining wall that you can still see and walk on as part of today's sidewalk.

Sentries could use the defensive position in case of attack from the sea. Much of Waikiki Beach, in fact, was barb-wired and 'off limits' for much of WWII. The navy requisitioned the Royal Hawaiian and we now know that Japanese submarines often came as close to the beach as possible in order to enjoy the big band music that the sailors danced to.

That grass covered "hill" behind the beach is actually Battery Randolph, a defensive gun position so massive that efforts to level it were abandoned. Now it houses the army museum. A Sherman tank, and a few of its comrades from both sides, are parked irresistibly in front where kids can break the rules and climb on them.

I enjoy the visual dialogue between the WWII howitzer and the monarchy-era cannon. Both seem hopelessly antiquated as new fighter planes roar overhead. This part of Waikiki beach always hosts lots of warriors; those leaving/returning from active duty as well as veterans revisiting their youth. Fresh tattoos on muscled biceps, blurred old Sailor Jerry 'hula girl' tattoos, and the young, tanned, un-inked skin of military dependants, all tell their stories in the sun.

Memories and dreams mingle underneath the palms with the smell of barbeque, just like Valhalla. In front of the Army Museum, a circle of sentinel tikis, carved by Hawaiian-blooded artist Rocky Jensen, honors the warriors, Na Koa, of 'pre-contact' Hawaii. . .

Continuing along Kalia Road we come to the refreshed Outrigger Reef Hotel with its new Polynesian canoe hale overhang and museum-quality artifacts throughout the lobby. Sometimes I like to pause right in front where Don Ho and Sam Kapu strummed ukulele and sang for Bobby & Cindy Brady in that episode when the Brady Bunch Went Hawaiian.

Then I look at the Roy's restaurant where the fast food place used to be and I realize that Waikiki is always fresh, always renewing (like the surf, like the seasons) even if she is always wrapped in precious and beautiful memories of a storied past. Just then a fragrant bride and groom (Covered in lei) exit a white limo onto the sidewalk beside me. Lots of "Congratulations!" from complete strangers fall like rice as I trail along in their wake as they float down the sidewalk.

We're just the blurry faces in the background of their special memories, passers-by they don't notice in their bliss, but their joy rubs off on everyone. Everyday our streets are full of such sights & joys. Memories are being created all around me as I stroll through my own daily errands and musings. Lucky I live Hawaii. . .

Have you been very, very good? Then treat yourself to an early dinner at Ruth's Chris Steak House at Lewers Street. The happy buzz of our 'Paris in Flip Flops' is hushed as you enter the pristine room and peruse the five o'clock early menu. Pleasantly tired feelings sing harmony with the rising anticipation of another tropical night's music & moonlight as you sip a cool drink. No TV, no newspaper, no distractions. None needed. Soon the hottest plate you've never touched is placed before you, and for a short while no president or corporate mogul is eating better than you are – and you certainly deserve it. . .

Rejoining the throng outside, I'm struck once again by the beautifully relaxed faces around me. A beloved Hawaiian song comes to mind: "Kaulana Na Pua" (Famous are the Flowers of Hawaii). The flowers of the title are really a poetic allusion to the people of Hawaii, the true blooms of these islands. Why don't YOU come wave in our breezes for a while? . .

Humpback whales have been spotted in the vicinity of Maui and the Big Island. It's just a matter of time before we'll see their spouts off of Waikiki. Trade-wind winter is coming and before we know it, Santa will be arriving in his outrigger canoe! Sometimes the tall hotels and happy sidewalks cause us to forget that our town is just a small human place in the middle of vast oceanic nature.

Sea turtles feed in the Waikiki dusk right beside wading visitors who can't believe their eyes. A sacred and rare Pueo (Hawaiian short-eared owl) has lately been spotted on the grounds of historic Iolani Palace in the heart of downtown Honolulu, and the endangered Puaiohi bird is staging a comeback in the forests of Kaua`i. Local resident Jim Snyder has even found a new resident! Zizina otis, the lesser grass blue butterfly, is now happily established in parks and vacant lots right here in Waikiki. These frail natives of Asia and Africa have never been seen here before. "I've trained my eyes to be so observant that I see things others don't see – you see amazing things out there," Mr. Snyder told a local reporter.

Yes indeed, especially here in the sandy, fragrant streets of Waikiki! Actually, I made a great 'find' myself, just minding my business downtown on King Street: Elvis and a female companion were enjoying their day, riding in the back of a pickup truck. I would have kept this to myself. . . Except THIS time I remembered to snap a picture. . . So come join us at Da Beach. You never know what you're going to see next. . . When you're Walking in Waikiki. . . ALOHA!

cloudia.charters@gmail.com Want to enjoy more Waikiki "street" life with Cloudia? Check out her Hawaii "Taxi Cab" Novel: "Aloha Where You Like Go?" at Amazon.com, local bookstores, or the Hawaii State Library branch near you! NOW you can read her daily blog at www.comfortspiral.blogspot.com <MAHALO>

Walking in Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters, Kolea Cool & Misty, Oct 5, 2008

"Honolulu Winter Calendar" Tired and skinny Kolea (golden plover) have returned to our misty-morning Waikiki lawns after their latest epic flight from Alaska. Anticipation and a fresh autumn coolness thrill the O`ahu air, and air conditioners are silent, as these part-time residents return year after year. Albatross, who reportedly spends up to 10 years in flight, may not be impressed by Kolea's feat, but I am. The original "snow birds" will winter in the islands stuffing their beaks till its time to return north in the spring.

The Humpback Whales, too, will soon be wintering here as usual. Life's cycles do continue, and I'm not talking 'boom' & 'bust.' How about you, got the urge to get away? E Komo Mai! Welcome, there's room on the beach for YOU. . .

Thanks-for-the-suggestion department: Speaking of Alaska, was that Sarah Palin?! Gun laws are strict in Japan, so our visitors from Nihon enjoy the opportunity to blast away while on their Waikiki vacations. Walking along Kalakaua Avenue the other evening, a brunette woman took a flyer advertising a gun club. A moment later she accepted a coupon from the guy in the moose suit who touts Moose McGillycuddy's Pub on Lewers. Then it hit her: "You should get together with the gun club people!" The moose guy backed slowly away. . .

Travel & Leisure Magazine readers and CNN viewers have voted Honolulu their favorite city for travel and romance! We are in their top 5 for peace & quiet, for "just relaxing," for over-all quality of life and for visitor experience too. Plus we're #1 for holiday travel. Upscale international men's magazine, MONOCLE, published its "Quality of Life" list placing Honolulu at #11. The next American city I could find was Portland OR at #25. We also boast the cleanest air and the highest rents in the USA (median: $1200). . .

Musical chairs: Compadres, the popular Ward Avenue restaurant, has closed its doors; while Whole Foods Market has come to Kahala Mall (Replacing the super market where Jack Lord, "McGarrett of Hawaii 5-0 fame, used to shop. Book`em Mango!) Meanwhile, epic breakfast place Eggs & Things is moving right across Saratoga Road from the Waikiki Post Office. .

If you haven't enjoyed Waikiki recently you do owe yourself another visit. A lot is going on. The streets resonate happily with the excitement of new openings, refreshed hotels, and fun activities. The Royal Hawaiian Hotel refurbishment continues apace; and Ru Murakami of the wonderful, newly opened Waikiki nei show (www.waikikinei.com) tells me that the production continues to enjoy very positive audience response. Even so, it is constantly being freshened and improved all the time. I know I'll be back to see it with my guests this winter. It really is fun and worthwhile!

And speaking of winter, exciting Hawaii Winter Baseball www.HawaiiWinterBaseball.com is BACK for another jamming season! See great plays up close under blue skies. If you suffer withdrawals after the World Series perhaps you can write your trip off as rehab. . . The annual Honolulu Marathon (Sunday December 14^th at 5am) always gets me into a Christmas mood. It's so relaxing to be awakened by that early cannon only to realize that I can go back to sleep – then doing so. Cozy, ahhh! www.honolulumarathon.org . . .

For those who prefer to sit in a dark place, the Hawaii Int'l Film Festival www.hif.org is on tap for October 9-18. Connoisseurs claim ours is one of the "don't miss" events of the film year. And don't forget Chinese New Year of the OX here in America's oldest Chinatown. (Popular block party slated for mid February) Lunar New Year is ALWAYS a very big deal here in our town with it's deep Chinese roots. If you can't get to Beijing or Hong Kong, experience a joyous and authentic "Kung Hee Fat Choy!" here with us. . .

World-class surf will soon be luring professional surfers, poseurs, wanna be-s, and spectators to Oahu's North Shore for the top competitions in that sport that Hawaii gave to the world. Chicken skin, Bruhdah! . .

Kona Memories: Swimming with turtles at Disappearing Sands Beach, coffee bushes blooming with white flowers, their bright red "cherries" hiding green coffee beans inside, the smell of FRESH roasted coffee.

Aunty Sandol Stoddard writes from Kona: "…as to the air, Mme Pele (the volcano goddess) has developed a new pattern the past 2 weeks or so - now for the first time since February we actually get 3-4 hours of lovely sunshine each morning before getting socked in with the smelly gray stuff. Then, the past few evenings, we have seen partial clearing and the worst of the dark lifts to provide a hazy sunset of sorts. Last night I could even see it on the ocean, not the "golden pathway" of yore but a brief brassy-colored one. Lots of noise up at the caldera lately and we are told she is spitting large bits of glass and Pele's hair as well as the usual rock dust and poison gas. Sounds like a major snit to me. Sandol."

Volcanic haze IS an issue for some parts of the Big Island, like Auntie's. Some folks avoid the Big Island altogether (which is a shame); others wouldn't miss the amazing volcano show. Parts of the island are relatively unaffected, like the Waikoloa "Gold" Coast and Kohala cowboy country. Just be informed before you go. Of course, thanks to glorious trade-wind weather, Oahu skies are crisp and clean – I love our Waikiki winters. . . .

No matter how long I labor at the keyboard each day I can always look forward to my sunset walk down the beach. Often I walk east, for you see: I'm not watching another Hawaii sunset. On my daily walks I am looking at something much more precious, varied and beautiful; I'm looking at YOU, our guests from all around the world. What a sight you are! Everyone is beautiful in Hawaii. . .

Who were all those pale, bald, happy kids? They are a group of cancer patients brought here by the Sunshine Club, and they seem to be everywhere, and doing everything: surfing, canoe riding, even swimming with the dolphins at Sea Life Park. They look like they're having a blast! "I was face to face with a sea turtle. I took his picture!" one of the kids told a local reporter. And that's what Waikiki has always been about: relaxation, healing, and coming back to your senses. . .

Inside word: visitor counts are down for all of the islands, but Waikiki is anything but a ghost town. The pace always slackens at this time of year but sidewalks and beaches remain lively with locals and our guests enjoying the eternal healing magic of our little village by the sea. Don't tell the chamber of commerce, but I like the slower tempo and visitors seem to as well. Don't assume that you can't afford to join us this fall and winter.

Right now there are amazing deals to be had! Reduced room-rates, and extra nights, are some of the "sweeteners" on offer right now, and package deals look especially alluring. Don't wish that you had. This could be your optimum moment. Come S.O.A.R. with us! (Share Our Abundant Rainbows) Blue skies, rainbows, lovely people, and welcoming surf always surround you. . . When you're walking in Waikiki. . . A L O H A !

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