News from Waikiki

Aloha

Hawaii Blogs:

June July 08

Walking in Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters, Renewing The Magic, July 22, 2008

Old Waikiki was quiet and marshy, a place of rice paddies, duck ponds, and small farmers. The voices of the surf, Nalu, and the wind, Makani, spoke more clearly in those days. After western contact, the ingenious Hawaiian fishponds, aquaculture pantry to the chiefs and fresh food for generations, crumbled neglected. Their wisdom of sustainability would slumber unappreciated for a hundred years. Yet, scores of tall royal palms as at Helumoa, the "King's Grove" (where Kamehameha the Great once resided) persisted in their beauty to our own lucky day. Even though, one by one, the beloved Waikiki retreats of royalty were long ago subdivided away, memory of those happy times still lingers in the names on our street signs: Prince Kuhio, King Kalakaua, Princess Kaiulani, and her beloved beach home Ainahau. Even Honolulu's broad King Street marks an ancient foot trail that carried the retinue of kings to the beach. . .

Young Waikiki tourism grew up barefoot in boarding houses and bungalows back in the days when travel took weeks by ship. Then the Royal Hawaiian Hotel sprang up, a pink fantasy castle, sharing the golden strand with her sister rival the grand gingerbread Moana Hotel whose veranda-courtyard banyan tree still remembers the laughing voices of Queen Lili'uokalani's and Robert Louis Stevenson as they whiled away golden afternoons over tea.

A playground for the rich, for celebrities, and for the very fortunate came of age on the broad lanai of these two sister hotels who are still with us today. But something unusual is happening.

As our Waikiki sparkles in tropical starlight, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel stands dark amidst her coconut palms, as if the front tooth of a well-beloved smile were glaringly absent. Thankfully it is just a time of refurbishment and renewal for the grand old gal. She will re-open on the first of next year with Moorish stone inlays and other refreshments. Just PLEASE don't change her too much! The ghosts of golden age Hollywood, the maharajahs, the "swells" might not approve and so recede even further into memory. To enter the Royal is to inhabit a special place of authenticity and quality that is rare today at any price! Those of us who love the eternal Waikiki are counting the days. And please, oh PLEASE keep her pink ;-). . .

Luxe & Easy Does It! Halekulani means "house befitting heaven" and the airy white hotel at the beach end of Lewers Street is certainly that. Most of us will never see the inside of the luxury rooms, but anyone can enjoy a heavenly meal at the House Without a Key restaurant. In fact it's one of my favorite indulgences. Whenever I deserve some pampering in a world-class atmosphere I put on something "nice" and saunter off to eat delicious food in a relaxed yet gilded atmosphere. Look at me! I'm Holly Golightly having her "breakfast at Tiffany's," sure that nothing very bad could ever happen to me there! Oh, and by the way, Tiffany's is only a block or two away. . .

Caught Palani Vaughn, the monarchy era cultural expert and song writer/performer, at the recent Na Mele No Na Pua Monthly (Free!) concert down at Beach Walk. The Hawaii Royal Order of Guards opened the show with precision rifle drills in uniforms honoring the real Royal Guard of bygone days. Palani's daughter, herself a respected Kumu Hula, brought out her men to dance Hula Pahu – the mystical "hula of the temple" that is very rarely seen publicly today. I especially liked the "call and response" between the kane (men) and their Kumu. Next, 3 talented wahine were introduced as members of the Hawaii National Guard leaving soon for deployment to the war zone, a fact that added something intangible yet undeniable to their hula. One hopes the evident confidence and strength they derive from their cultural pride will sustain them in the desert; till they all come home. . .

A quiet moment: walking through fallen mangoes on the slopes of Punchbowl. Time stands still as I contemplate the neat bundles of leaf litter carefully stacked at the curb by proud householders on these quiet residential streets. Music and memories fill my reverie, images of dancers and warriors, the proud names of gracious kings and queens, all carrying me back to an earlier Honolulu Town that still beats as the heart of our little modern city. Turning to the highways and activity below, I am magically returned to our 21^st century capitol. But the mangoes, the scent of ginger, the perfect little yards and gardens remain, inviting us to a timeless, musing meander through the rich texture of this place that we love. . .

I saw the sign: the new digital sign at Kapahulu Chevron that is. It's the first such in the islands. Reminds me of the charming stories of Hawaiians crowding around Iolani Palace to watch the king's newly installed electric Edison lights come on of an evening (back when the White House was still gas lit). But no one's oo-ing and ah-ing the daily raising of the fuel prices! . .

And what's this I see two doors down Kapahulu Avenue?! Sam Choy's is closed! The upscale but comfortable restaurant (opened in 1995) always bestowed an air of "occasion" and never disappointed. Sam's food rocks! This is where kama`aina and our welcome visitors alike learned to love "Hawaii Regional Cuisine." But don't despair! The Nimitz "Sam's" is remaining and even getting updated. Favorite dishes from the Kapahulu menu will join the micro-brews and crab, and (good guy) Sam is firing no one. His popular local TV cooking show will also continue. I hope they keep the fishing boat in the dining room. .

There goes the neighborhood: YIKES! A giant SCARY eel the size of a man's leg has taken up residence in the rocks beside my boat slip. The teeth, I can't forget those ugly TEETH! At least I'm luckier than the folks on the North Shore who have a whale carcass rotting on their rocky coast! Smelly Gross!! Hmm…wonder what the room rates are over at the Hilton? Speaking of Hilton, in a stroke of benevolent genius, hotel management the HILTON Prince Kuhio recently had a "taxi day" giving food and cold drinks to any cabby who rolled by. They never did that when I drove taxi, but I'm sure the current drivers will surely remember that there are now two Hilton properties here. . .

Next time you're down near Ohua Street, stroll into the lobby of the Waikiki Banyan to see all the photos of the old Waikiki. Cool display. Cirque du Soleil times two: the Montreal based phenomenon will be making their Honolulu Debut this fall! Watch Waikiki News for dates and details. For those who can't wait, Hawaii Nei, an eye popping pageant of Waikiki's past and present is opening any day at the show room of the newly revamped Royal Hawaiian Center. Word is that Cirque honchos helped to design the local presentation, and whispers claim it's GOOD! The center's new garden of indigenous and endemic plants, a free historic video show, and daily cultural offerings are also welcome additions to the scene. Exciting things are happening all over Waikiki. I can't WAIT to get back out there! Magic might be found around any corner, all you need is a small shift in perception and attitude. . . When you're walking in Waikiki. . . ALOHA!

Want to enjoy more Waikiki "street" life with Cloudia? Check out her Hawaii "Taxi Cab" Novel: "Aloha Where You Like Go?" at Amazon.com, local bookstores, or the Hawaii State Library branch near you! cloudia.charters@gmail.com <MAHALO>

Walking in Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters,From the Stars to the Shallows, June 29, 2008

Sitting on the frayed tatami mats of our little coffee shack in the uplands of Kona many years ago, I fell in love with the indescribably sweet and humane sounds of Hawaiian music. Radio stations from far off Hilo and Honolulu made house-calls that healed my immigrant heart; until slowly, slowly (though I understood no Hawaiian language) the soul and the wisdom inside those mellifluous melodies, and the gentle words of Olelo Hawaii, became to me the mother tongue of my growing up into an adult and a local island person.

Who would have thought, back in those days of catchment-water-cooked rice on the propane stove, that I'd one day live in Waikiki, have running water, a rice machine, and even attend the "Na Hoku Hanohano" (Stars of Distinction) Awards with all of the glittering and talented people who make da music? And yet: there I was on Tuesday night at our beautiful Hawaii Convention Center, a gratefully hanai-ed cousin at the grandest family reunion all year!

Though there is lately (and deservedly) a Grammy category for Hawaiian Music, mainstream/mainland Grammy voters aren't really exposed to, or knowledgeable about our island music, so the Hokus are the real recognition by the folks who really understand. The evening's live TV / Web broadcast kicked off with a performance by living treasures (and currently number 3 on the Billboard World Music Charts) the Brothers Cazimero, Robert & Roland, who were soon joined on stage by Robert's celebrated hula students: the men of Halau Na Kamalei, fresh from the recent PBS American Masters program documenting their life-changing discipline and award-winning, audience thrilling performances.

And that was just the beginning! Hoku Zuttermeister was the man of the hour walking off with 5 Hokus including Favorite Entertainer of the Year for his debut CD "Aina Kupuna." With a name like Zuttermeister it HAS to be good! (And it is!) Plus I got to see all of the behind the scenes stuff the TV audience misses, like that certain Lifetime Achievement Award winner throwing spitballs at his famous producer over dinner- unseen by all but me ;-).

Thanks to my friend (and sometime band mate) Mark Coleman of the Honolulu Star Bulletin for the invite – even if he DID "borrow" the title of my Hawaii novel: "Aloha Where You Like Go?" for a recent column about a local taxi company! On Sunday June 29^th Mark's band the Whaley Boys will headline Blues Fest at the venerable Anna Bananas 4pm to 9. See you there. . .

Say, did you notice that Tim Russert's televised "Irish Wake" ended with the song "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" sung by local legend Bruddah Israel Kamakawio`ole as the crowd of heavyweights walked out under a rare Washington DC rainbow? More gifts shared from these magical islands that we love. And we especially love to share them with YOU! The Ilikai Hotel, the Hilton, the Royal Hawaiian Hotel are all in a "backstage" frenzy as they freshen up "sets" for your next visit. Truthfully, Waikiki remains active though there is noticeably less traffic, which only makes it nicer I think. So come star in our world-class show. Come and be appreciated. After all, in these uncertain times a Hawaii vacation is one real "can't lose" investment, furthermore, relaxation prevents disease and divorce ;-). . .

Above it all: I'm scared of "tourist traps," so it was with some trepidation that we joined part-time Waikiki residents Joey & George Cattermole for dinner at the Top of Waikiki revolving restaurant. Happily, we found the food excellent under the tasteful eye of Executive Chef / Culinary Savant Sean Priester, an adopted transplant from Louisiana. His food is marvelous; the service is warm, and the prices are reasonable. Good to see Sean holding court at a great place with an AMAZING view. Don't be afraid of heights: check it out. . . June 19^th was World Sauntering Day. Hmmm. . .

Sauntering in Waikiki? Not! This summer will see the inauguration of direct flights to our isles from China. This is exciting. We stay home – the world comes to visit! Nihau! Chinese visitors will find much of their food and culture already waiting for them here in the "Sandalwood Mountain" as they are a major part of Hawaii culture courtesy of King Kalakaua who invited the children of Han to the islands over 100 years ago. . .

Big Island resident Michael Walsh was in despair. Jewelers in three major US cities told him that fixing the band on his beloved wristwatch was impossible. Imagine his joy when David & Jason at Sears Watch & Jewelry Repair (Ala Moana, Mall level 808 947 0343) restored his timepiece as well as his admiration for our "easy Brah" local-style of excellence and service delivered simply & humbly.

When oh when will the "mainland" catch up with us? You say "lee-chee" we say "lye chee." Those pale globes garnishing the hotel brunch buffet fruit salad get neglected by visitors. Are they peeled giant grapes? NO! They are delicious summer lychee currently in season throughout the isles. Back yard trees with their sickle shaped leaves are a summer bounty of bumpy red fruit. Peel one to reveal the juicy flesh inside. Pop the whole fruit into your mouth, carefully and pleasurably biting into the smooth brown oblong seed within; it looks almost too pretty to throw away. . .

No wonder Honolulu leads the nation in the consumption of fresh produce! On the Squids: one day they just showed up. An amorous pair of little reddish brown squid ignored me the other morning as I watched their antics in the Ala Wai shallows beside my boat. Yesterday afternoon five of the creatures, wearing light purple this time, could be seen hangin` & huntin` near the harbor rocks. Seems they change color according to their mood, turning pale white when scared. Glad I didn't frighten the newcomers. We hear they are making a comeback in our waters, perhaps to catch the "Jet Set" Exhibit featuring their relatives at the Waikiki Aquarium (808 923 9741). . .

Sun Bears are coming to the Honolulu Zoo! A mating pair will "move in" soon. I can't wait to welcome them. Speaking of moving in, there are flotillas of small fry all around Waikiki this time of year, even the newly renovated Duke Kahanamoku Lagoon beside the harbor holds schools of baby fish. These tiny living treasures, the mesmerizing blue of our skies, the smiles of beautiful people; these are the things you notice when you leave the ipod, the mobile phone, and the mental machinery of thinking in your room and go out for a Waikiki stroll. Just feel the sand, the grass, the stone beneath your feet. Feel the caress of trade winds. Soon you will remember that life is more than just what we think about all day long. There is real beauty & relaxation for your soul, and it's all for free. . . When you're walking in Waikiki. . . Aloha! cloudia.charters@gmail.com

Walking in Waikiki, With Cloudia Charters, "Who Loves a Parade?"

Most folks love a parade. Theme parks like Disneyland stage them every day, but Waikiki is a real neighborhood where people live, visitors are always coming and going, and the thousand & one fascinating functions of a modern city hum along day and night. So the residents of our Honolulu (53^rd largest metro population in the USA) have reasonably limited such activities. This weekend we had only two parades and one block party.

In 1871 King Kamehameha IV chose June 11^th as a day of honor to his grandfather Kamehameha the Great, the warrior, statesman and visionary who united all of our islands into one Kingdom of Hawaii. First celebrated in 1872, this year marks the 136^th Kamehameha Day.

In 1901 Hawaiians began the tradition of decorating the great king's statue (downtown in the Capitol District) with dozens of fresh flower lei as a sign of respect. To this day, the fragrance of those flowers embodies a living connection to the influence of our host culture. Honolulu Fire Department uses one of their ladder trucks for the purpose, and this year firefighter Keone Doane was seen paying honor to the king by touching forehead and nose with the statue, sharing the traditional "mauli ola" greeting of ancient days. These are no mere simulated events, but the survival of a living, breathing way of being in the world.

1916 saw the first annual floral parade, and on Saturday we enjoyed the latest edition. Pa'u riders representing the chiefly lineage of each island waved grandly from their beautiful flower be-decked horses. Royal Society members in open cars, wearing traditional feather capes (or modern representations) offered gracious "Aloha" to visitors and locals lining Kalakaua Avenue. And this is one parade that locals do attend.

Listen! Here comes the greatest municipal asset anywhere: The Royal Hawaiian Band! They've been marching since monarchy days, playing music written just for them – and for us. Their repertoire, unique sound, and rich patina of esprit de corps are indeed a living tribute to the special heartbeat of this land. . .

Saturday evening the Pan-Pacific Matsuri Parade unfolded itself down the avenue complete with giant taiko drums, colorful dancers, too many high-pitched flutes, and un-real floats from Japan. (Take that, Mickey!) The hit of the evening was the Obama Girls, a hula troupe from the tiny coastal village of Obama Japan. Their "I love Obama" t-shirts express how they feel about the "kind and generous" presidential candidate (born in Hawaii). The village is soliciting a relationship with Honolulu for that reason.

100 is a nice, round number. In fact it has two circles befitting the twin accomplishments of Hui Nalu Canoe Club in observance of their first hundred years of paddling. To mark the occasion, the club ohana circumnavigated our O`ahu (the first "circle") in 19 "legs" each dedicated to a beloved person of the club's illustrious story (thus closing the second "circle" of gratitude & aloha).

The epic journey of over 130 miles took three days. While some paddled, other members gifted our community with service projects such as restoring ancient fish ponds and removing tons of invasive non-native sea weed from beaches. One perfect wave carried the last canoe to its home beach. A gentle push from beyond, to close the great circle journey. . .

The Kotohira Jin-Sha-Hawaii Dazaifu Tenmangu Shrine in Kalihi held their 4^th annual Pet Blessing ceremony recently. In what is described as an "1,800 year old traditional Shinto blessing performed in the traditional way" animals and their human companions walked through a 6 foot diameter circle of ti-leaves to the steps of the shrine where a Shinto priest rang the sazu bell over the pet's head and blessed each one for health, longevity, and in gratitude for their compassion to us.

Traditions brought here by Hawaii people from Japan have not survived as empty civic displays, but as living folk-ways that are still evolving: note the use of leaves of the ti plant, holy to the Hawaiians. . .

While we' re in this part of town let's jog up to the Hungry Lion in the homey Nu`uanu Shopping Plaza at School St. & Nu`uanu Ave. Open 24 hours seemingly forever, the Hungry Lion is a surreal place for midnight breakfasts under the real, growing, banyan tree inside the dining room! As if this wasn't "enough" they pipe in wild animal sounds too. At first you think you're losing it (or drunker than you thought ;-) when you hear. . .

Hyenas? Elephants? Rumor has it that a Walgreen's is moving in, which probably means major changes for the landmark. Stop in for food, stay for the "show," buy the t-shirt or mug. . .

Pizza! Waikiki residents from other exotic homelands have also brought their culinary and cultural traditions with them to paradise. Growing up in Philly, New York, or Boston means you come from a great immigrant tradition of peasant food that morphed into "street" food. If, like me, you long for the flavorful and tasty slices of pizza that you bought in the subway (not the franchise sandwich shop – the REAL subway) you can re-live that perfect bliss at King Pub & Pizza in the Hawaiian Monarch on little Niu ("cocoanut palm") Street. Tell Laura that I sent you, then order a slice, entire pie, salad, or meatball sandwich and bliss out! I'm really enjoying Maunalua's new CD. Now this is the music I hear in my head. . . when I'm walking in Waikiki. . . ALOHA!

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